The sad truth about good British pubs is that they are rapidly declining. Just today I drove past many former pub sites which have been converted into supermarkets, convenience stores or McDonald's restaurants. The pub chains which prevail across Britain, offering glorified versions of the food we eat at home, frozen, mass produced, ready made yet at three times the price, are a far cry from the traditional pub.
In the quiet, pretty village surroundings of West Ashling, the local pub, had it not been rescued by William and Emma Jack, may have folded. The Jack's took over The Richmond Arms nearly four years ago and embarked on a journey which saw them renovating the pub into a welcome haven for drinkers, snackers and fine diners.
The Jack's are a dynamic couple who have previously worked for artist manager and TV producer Simon Fuller - they cooked for numerous celebrities including the Beckhams and Annie Lennox - they also spent 11 years in France as private chefs on super yachts.
The Jack's approach is innovative and exciting, having worked and lived in the Mediterranean they wanted the emphasis to be on relaxed and sociable eating. To that end they converted the pubs bowling alley into a family friendly dining space which houses rustic wooden tables and chairs to create a casual environment. On Friday and Saturday nights families gather around the tables to share mixed plates of tapas and pizzas which are cooked in 60 seconds in their converted bakery van complete with a wood-fired oven which heats up to 500ºc.
This relaxed continental approach has proved very popular, as Emma points out this space is about having fun, making noise and eating with your fingers! The Jack's have managed to transcend borders in their lovely quintessentially British, village pub.
Back in the pubs main building is a more conventional restaurant area and bar, however, all around are the personal touches of Emma and William who spent months scouring the country for quirky artefacts to furnish their pub.
The Richmond Arms is ranked 29th in the 'top 50 pubs' section in the Good Food Guide for good reason. The menu is fresh, modern and tailored to the seasons. Emma hails from a farming family and her passion for excellent produce along with William's creative quirky and unusual dishes make for a great dining experience.
The changing menu offers delights such as game which come from Emma's family farm - guinea fowl and slow cooked hare are just two examples. I opted for 24-hour cooked sticky, smoky beef brisket with dripping chips.
My companion ordered the grilled local monkfish, with wild garlic masala, wood roasted pumpkin and guanciale.
Our dishes were equally delicious but I think it's important to add that there is a difference between eating and dining, yes of course it is predominantly about the quality of food, but also about the experience. The Jack's received a business innovation award this year for taking a concept and excelling in the idea. Theirs is an extension of their home, their lifestyle, their knowledge. This isn't about getting two meals for a fiver, getting it down your neck and going home, dinner at The Richmond Arms is not something you do in the evening before you do something else - dinner is the evening.
The dessert menu was too good to resist and again everything is homemade in the kitchen by William and his second chef Theo Tzanis. I opted for a selection of ice creams: salted caramel, liquorice and honeycomb. I had my reservations about the liquorice ice cream but it turned out to be my favourite......truly delicious.
Astonishingly, statistics reveal that by 2002 thirty million of us were eating out at least once a week, again showing that quantity over quality rules. Pubs and restaurants such as The Richmond Arms are fighting an uphill battle against the giant corporations, but I know where I'd rather spend my money, on good quality, locally sourced, seasonal produce, lovingly prepared by passionate chefs, delivered with impeccable service in fantastic surroundings with a terrific ambience. And I guess I'm not alone as Kate Winslet, Albert Finney and Hugh Dennis are just a few to be counted as the Jack's regulars.
We finished our meal with excellent strong espressos served in quirky retro cups and saucers and concluded that The Richmond Arms is one of the best restaurants we have reviewed.
'I just ate at a McDonald's franchise, and it was great. Everything looked new, including the food. Apparently fast food will look new for years, sort of like plastic. I wonder if the toys in Happy Meals are more edible than the meals themselves.'
- Jarod Kintz
Love Donna xxxxxxxxx
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