My latest assignment for Shorelines newspaper was to visit The Earl Of March Dining Pub In Lavant, Chichester. As is usual, I briefly scanned a few online reviews, which were mixed, but I delved no deeper as I wanted to appraise the establishment for myself.
The Earl Of March enjoys a spectacular vista of England's green and pleasant land, in fact, local records show that it was where William Blake wrote the words to the hymn Jerusalem in 1803.
The interior of the pub/restaurant, once a coaching inn which dates back to the early 18th century, has been attractively refurbished, contemporary with rustic chic and elements inspired by the local history all combine to create a casual atmosphere.
The Earl offers various seating areas, the dining room with its glorious views, the bar area with its luxurious leather sofas and roaring log fire and for intimate private parties the period stable block and old bakehouse.
We took a seat by the fire and sat back to peruse the menu and specials board and I liked what I saw. The dishes on offer were good honest country food with a sophisticated urban twist, with the onus on seasonal, locally sourced, fresh ingredients. Delights such as hand picked Selsey crab, Sussex beef, slow roast shoulder of Southdown lamb, half a dozen rock oysters and on Tuesdays for the amazing price of £12.50 moules, frites and Muscadet. I opted for beer battered haddock and hand cut triple cooked chips, my companion went for the country rabbit. With our order placed, we were served with delicious homemade bread and marinated olives to nibble on with our pre dinner drinks.
Our meals were beautifully presented and sublimely delicious as only home cooked, fresh, high quality ingredients can be! I then wanted to know who was the inspiration behind this wonderful pub, obviously a place for people who understand the culture that goes with fine dining, drinking and ambience.
Giles Thompson became the proprietor of The Earl in 2007, prior to that his gastronomic career was extensive. Giles had worked with Michel Bourdin at the Connaught Hotel for nine years. Whilst working at Danesfield house in Buckinghamshire, Giles achieved two AA rosettes and an RAC restaurant award for classic cuisine with a contemporary twist. He was the executive head chef at the Ritz Hotel and after twenty years in deluxe hotels, became head of teaching at London's Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Academy. Giles work has been recognised by the accreditation of The Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales, St James Palace and the soil association for his commitment to organic food, both achievements were a first in the restaurant world. Quite frankly, if that doesn't impress you, not much will!
What I loved about Giles was his energy, he's hugely likeable and continually innovates his staff to keep up the high standards. The staff clearly enjoy working for him and are friendly, happy and attentive but not intrusive. The locals, who Giles is very passionate about, frequent The Earl as much for its fine dining as for its ambience. This is a place for company and connection, a haven for conversation and conviviality, a refuge from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
I look forward to returning in May when the game shack is transformed into the seafood shack. The doors are cast open for customers to take in the breathtaking views whilst enjoying fresh Selsey seafood, lobster, crab, oysters and smoked salmon and of course champagne, what a splendid way to spend a summer evening!
I'm no pushover when it comes to pub/restaurants, I expect food to be superior, or at the very least, equal to my home cooking (why do people go out to eat and pay for frozen, processed, microwaved food?) I want good, friendly service from staff who 'frankly my dear, give a damn.' I seek atmosphere and authenticity and value for money. The Earl Of March ticked all the right boxes for me, as I imagine it would for any discerning pub diner.
'All the best pubs are built on a hill, so you can slope in and roll out.'
- Benny Bellamacina.
Love Donna xxxxxx
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