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Thursday 27 August 2015

Prue Leith On Contemporary Cookbooks.

                             Some of my well worn custard and gravy splattered cookbooks

Writer, chef and judge on the Great British Menu Prue Leith has caused a commotion by saying recently that contemporary cookbooks are now destined almost exclusively for the coffee table. 'We drool over them, then order a takeaway pizza or Google our way to the kitchen. In my day as a young cook, cookery books 'lived in the kitchen' and had virtually no imagery.'

I wrote a post some while back running along the same theme, I wondered if cookbooks still had a place in today's kitchen?

Harping back to what inspired me to write a blog was the fact that where I used to work we received a book box on a regular basis, contemporary cookbooks were indeed drooled over, yet many of my colleagues admitted they couldn't cook and that these glossy tomes were not instructional enough for novices.

I also wrote a post (see Classic Burger, it's actually really interesting.) regarding the photography used in many contemporary cookbooks and how deceptive this can be. Quite literally, the practice of 'smoke and mirrors' is used by 'food stylists' the seductive photos are science projects masquerading as culinary delights!

Leith maintains we're more interested in style than substance, for me it's interesting to compare my mother's Good Housekeeping's Cookery Compendium with a contemporary cookbook. There is no doubt that stories and beautiful photographs of an olive tree or some vintage crockery are taking over from the old fashioned cookery books which were all about educating us to cook. I have several friends who strategically place contemporary cookbooks on their coffee tables and their sparkly granite worktops because it's become a snobbish and fashionable form of etiquette, never mind that most of them rarely cook, it gives the right impression!

I agree with Leith that the imagery has become ridiculous, however, I have always posted photos along with my recipes because I struggle with a recipe if I have little idea of how it should look. That said, my photos are very real and of the moment and quite often probably more off putting than enticing!

Cookery books will always have a place in my kitchen and in my heart. Many of my books have sentimental value, especially ones bought for me by my mother and dear friends, splattered and with well worn pages, I return to old favourites regularly, and what I wouldn't give to publish my own book.........

My next recipe is an old favourite from Gennaro Contaldo's Passione, the recipe is delicious but unfortunately the photos, taken as I'm furiously fighting against steam, bad lighting and the calls of two hungry men wanting their dinner and for me to stop faffing about, do the recipe no justice. Please don't be put off, these really taste better than they look!

Cheesy mash peppers

Recipe
4 mixed peppers
2 large potatoes, boiled and mashed
75g provolone or mozzarella cheese, cut into very small cubes
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
Olive oil for drizzling
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 200c/gas mark 6
Halve the peppers and remove the white membrane and seeds
Mix together the mashed potatoes, provolone or mozzarella and Parmesan, season to taste
Using a spoon, fill the pepper halves
Drizzle with olive oil and bake for about 30 minutes, until tender
Serve immediately



'Old cookbooks connect you to your past and explain the history of the world.'
- Jose Andres Puerta.

Love Donna xxxxxx

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